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| REVELLERS: The festival is packed with an incredible volume of punters. |
By Alex Reeves – @afreeves23
It’s been two weeks since Hà Nội Events headed down south for an old school taste-off as they put together Hồ Chí Minh City’s latest iteration of tacos at dawn, or rather 11am, when the doors opened and the queues began.
Not one to allow a two-hour flight and a badly timed illness to deter me from a day of libations and great Mexican food, I dropped in to make sure our readers got a firsthand account of the day’s proceedings, all in the name of journalistic integrity, obviously.
Ahead of my arrival, the event card promised some of the country’s best vendors for a one-day contest of mole, masa, and bragging rights. Live music, plentiful beverages, an appearance from reigning northern champions Naco Taco and, most importantly, atmosphere.
If you’re busy, then it would be all too easy to stop reading here, as I’m happy to report that all of the above were delivered. I was fed, watered and entertained, which to the best of my knowledge is the whole point of such an occasion.
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| HANDS OFF: Tacos too delicious to even think about sharing. VNS Photos Alex Reeves |
This wasn’t HCM City’s first taco fest. The now lost but much-missed Saigon Outcast hosted a handful to what sounded like universal acclaim. I never had the pleasure, but by all accounts it was a big venue with room for hungry souls to roam.
Hà Nội Events, perhaps unsure how fast word would spread down south, were conservative with their estimates this time round, booking Creo Customs to host. Judging by the response from the city’s hungry, metropolitan crowd, keen to test a worthy successor, ambitions for future festivals will only grow for both organisers and punters alike.
It was busy from the off. By 1pm there were queues at almost every stall, yet credit to vendors and bar staff: my wait for beer or tacos, recommendation chat included, rarely topped 10 minutes. Personally, I’m equally at home in a smaller space, so I didn’t feel the unavoidable intimacy of the occasion had taken away from the spirit of the day. Familiar faces, new friends made. The general consensus from the kids running about, more people singing along as the day wore on, was that it felt good to be part of something on a holiday weekend.
Each stall served its own take on the Mexican staple, from faithful recipes to modern versions shaped by local ingredients. Rarely nowadays will you encounter a festival where everyone sticks to the classics, and for good reason. A little creative licence should be encouraged. In our ever more globalised world, it was heartening to see a balance of homage and exploration, every vendor keen to stand out as punters nominated the “Best Taco in Saigon”.
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| LIME TIME: No taco is complete without a squeeze of fresh citrus. |
Alongside Naco were Banh My Tay, Mamacita, Cielito Lindo, Taco Del Sol and The Taco King, a line-up that seemed to satisfy those in the know. Despite arriving with noble plans to try everything, I was gently advised it could be bad for business to time my first heart attack with the new festival’s debut. So I settled with what sounded best from each, then went back for seconds at my top three. Method somewhere in the mezcal, surely.
With the air carrying that sharp blend of lime, chilli and a little swagger, it was Naco who were the familiar benchmark. The Pulpo Inferno, winner back north earlier this year, is where fire meets the ocean and neither backs down, the octopus tender rather than rubbery, the chilli clean rather than crude. One bite and I was back in Hà Nội where they first made their case.
Habit took me to their beef birria too. The consomme is surely now the best in both towns, rich and savoury without tipping into salt or sludge.
Mamacita surprised me with a Black Angus beef chorizo. More accustomed to pork as a vessel for that deep paprika hum, this had snap, smoke and proper bite. Space allowing, I would have gone back for another and not felt remotely guilty.
Cielito Lindo read like a contender before I even queued. Yucatán style pork with achiote and orange juice, slow cooked to a gleeful sigh. It ate exactly as promised, juicy and bright, flavour compacted into a few unforgettable mouthfuls that still cut through after a couple of draft Chimays. Two visits.
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| Victors – Taco Del Sol took home first place and couldn’t hide their joy. |
Banh My Tay were an outlier in the best of ways. A comfort-first operation known for kebabs and gyros, with a style that bled into their tacos. You taste late-night honesty rather than curation. Found at the right hour, anybody would be grateful to stumble across them, and they were an honest alternative to many bougier offerings.
The Taco King and their Taco Queen, standing tall with a welcoming smile, had won me over from a distance, before sealing it with lengua in salsa verde. Beef tongue is too rare on menus here, and this was worth circling back for. Tender, savoury, refreshing, light kick. On another day, it could have taken the whole thing. A northern vendor could do worse than to take some inspiration here.
The headline, though, belonged to Taco Del Sol and a Vietnamese Bò Kho fusion affair. Succulent meat, juices repurposed as their own consomme, a neat, local sleight of hand that caught the crowd. Purism does not always triumph, and this victory was a showcase of how far Mexican cooking has travelled in Việt Nam, and how quickly it has been absorbed into the country’s fast-evolving dining culture.
Tacos sold out, grills cooling down, revellers wandering off into the HCM City night. Salud! Assuming this event becomes a staple in the foodie fest calendar, you’ll see me next year. Until then, hasta luego! VNS
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