By Thúy Hằng
If you’re thinking about where to go this summer, let me tell you about a place that quietly crept into my heart – Quan Lạn Island.
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| Angsana Quan Lạn, a five-star resort, offers a tranquil escape that blends luxury, nature and cultural charm. Photo courtesy of Angsana Quan Lạn |
Not far off the coast of Quảng Ninh Province, Quan Lạn (or Quang Lạn, as it’s also called) means “pure, bright and beautiful”.
At just under 11 square kilometres, it’s not a huge island, but it sits peacefully in Bái Tử Long Bay and feels worlds away from the noise and bustle of city life. What makes Quan Lạn special isn’t only its scenery, but how untouched everything still feels. Think clear, gentle waters, long strips of white sand and shady casuarina trees swaying in the breeze.
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| Ao Tiên Port serves as a gateway to nearby islands like Cô Tô, Minh Châu, Ngọc Vừng and Thanh Lân. Photo courtesy of Phương Anh |
The best time to go is between April and September. On a good day, the sun is warm, the sky is clear and the ocean seems to sparkle. If you’re planning a trip around July or August, though, it’s wise to keep an eye on the weather – storms can sweep through sometimes.
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| Minh Châu Beach is a pristine stretch of sand and one of Quan Lạn Island’s most breathtaking coastal spots. Photo courtesy of Angsana Quan Lạn |
Getting there is actually pretty easy. From Hà Nội, it’s about a three-hour drive to Ao Tiên Port, where you can grab lunch and stretch your legs before hopping onto a 45-minute speedboat to the island. Some hotels even help with booking tickets and transfers.
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| Quan Lạn communal house stands as a timeless emblem of cultural, spiritual and religious life for islanders. Photovov.vn |
Once you arrive, everything slows down in the best way. You can wander around by bike or on foot, take a motorbike for longer distances or ride in an electric buggy if you’re with a group. The beach is stunning – quiet and clean, perfect for a dip or a lazy afternoon just listening to the waves.
As the sun sets, head over to the night market and walking street. It’s not big, but the food is something else.
Locals serve grilled oysters, shrimp and specialties like bánh cuốn chả mực (steamed rice rolls with fried squid nuggets), cù kỳ crab noodle soup and peanut worm rice soup – yes, it’s a thing, and is surprisingly tasty!
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| A local woman harvests ‘sá sùng’ (peanut worm) from a tidal flat, continuing a tradition rooted in island life. VNS Photo Thúy Hằng |
One experience I didn’t expect to enjoy so much was sá sùng (peanut worm) digging. These nutrient-rich marine worms, found in subtidal zones and along the island’s shores, are considered a local delicacy.
Harvesting them is no simple task – it involves spotting subtle signs of their presence and carefully digging them out. It’s far from glamorous: you’ll need sturdy boots, a bucket and possibly a guide. Still, it’s a fascinating and hands-on way to connect with the rhythm of local life and work.
Culture runs deep here, too. In the village centre, you’ll find a beautiful communal house made of hard wood. It stands as a quiet reminder of traditions that still shape life here.
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| Tourists wade through shallow waters en route to dig peanut worms, a nutrient-rich marine delicacy. Photo courtesy of Phương Anh |
The island is home to the ancient Vân Đồn Port, established in 1149. One of Việt Nam’s earliest maritime trade ports, it flourished for centuries, especially under the Trần dynasty. It’s humbling to walk where merchants and sailors once did, centuries ago.
If you’re into nature and photography, there are places you won’t want to miss. Eo Gió up north feels like the wind always knows where to go, brushing past rocky cliffs with sea views that stretch far and wide.
Nearby, the Twin-Sand River and Minh Châu Grassland look like they belong in a travel magazine, but without the crowds. There’s also a golden sand dune that’s beautiful and barely marked on maps.
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| A savoury plate of fried ‘sá sùng’ (peanut worm), crispy and golden – one of Quan Lạn Island’s distinctive culinary specialties. VNS Photo Thúy Hằng |
For souvenirs and morning vibes, check out the local seafood market. You’ll find dried peanut worms, shrimp floss, fish sauce and more. It’s low-key but full of good stuff, and most items are easy to find again at the night market if you miss them earlier in the day.
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| Eo Gió reveals sweeping views of the open sea and rugged mountains, where wind and waves meet. Photo courtesy of Angsana Quan Lạn |
Where to stay:
Quan Lạn has one five-star resort, Angsana Quan Lạn. It opened last summer and feels tucked away from the world. There’s an onsen, mini-golf, watersports and even Việt Nam’s first coastal zipline. Plus, they have their own speedboat for guests, which makes getting here even smoother.
If you’re up for something simpler, there are plenty of homestays and hotels in town, and rates are pretty reasonable, around VNĐ800,000 per night if you stay centrally. VNS
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