By Ray Riches*
YouTubers misrepresent Hồ Chí Minh City as a tourist destination and cultural hub of Việt Nam. How can someone know everything about a city after spending 12 or 24 hours in the place? But this seems to be the format of the modern-day know-it-all on YouTube.
In the 2002 movie The Quiet American, Michael Caine opened with a monologue that included two lines capturing the essence of this remarkable country: “They say you come to Việt Nam and you learn a lot in a few minutes. But the rest has got to be lived.” This statement, made over 70 years ago, remains profoundly true today.
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| Landmark HCMC is an icon of the region and a great tourist attraction. Photos Courtesy of Ray Riches |
Graham Greene wrote this amazing book in the 1950s and after more than a decade living in HCMC, my experience of living in this city supports his notion. I can see that he understood the real culture and spirit of HCMC.
As you arrive at Tân Sơn Nhất Airport, visitors are faced with an onslaught of sights and sounds that are overwhelming for anyone not prepared for it. It is mind-blowing, but, unknown to the visitor, this is not the spirit of HCMC.
HCMC is separated into around 20 districts, built over centuries. Each district brings with it a culture that spans all aspects of modern and traditional simplistic living. And it is not until you take the time to go slow and observe, that you have the opportunity to experience this culture.
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| People enjoy a local cafe in HCMC. |
And it is this that is rudely missed in videos from many vloggers like ‘Where’s Wes?’. With 174k views, he stated that he only had one week in HCMC before going to the Philippines. The video shows Nguyễn Huệ, Lê Thánh Tôn, and downtown District 1.
He draws conclusions on the entire city from walking just a few streets. His comments about rubbish, architecture and a range of topics which are simply ill-informed. It is giving people the wrong impression of HCMC.
The city has grown over the last 50 years to become a truly diverse hub of Southeast Asia. As a resident, I can safely say that no matter what you are looking for in HCMC, you will find it. The issue is that you won’t always find it at the click of a button or when you turn the first corner.
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| Phá Lấu (Offal Stew) is one of the many special foods you can experience across HCMC in local markets and restaurants. |
Across the city, enclaves have developed where old and young locals come together to create a micro-community. Within that community, you find special dishes, a store selling fresh food, and people just trying to get on with life in a simple and basic way.
Go further, and you might come across the mega-rich. Those few people that struck good fortune and carry wealth far beyond that of the average person in Việt Nam.
But mostly, you find working-class families. They own one or two motorbikes and they work hard. They enjoy street food and they always appreciate a moment to communicate with a foreigner, these are the people that carry the spirit of this city.
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| Local restaurants across HCMC now serve Vietnam and international cuisine. |
Find your way out to places like District 12 and Củ Chi, and you come across the factory belt. These areas are awash with manufacturers and workers. These are small families where mum and dad work six days a week to give opportunities to their children that they may not have had when growing up.
Go there any afternoon around 4pm and you will experience this mass exodus of motorbikes. People rush out the gates of factories to get home to be with loved ones. It is the simplest thing but one that I find a privilege to experience as I travel around the city.
Then go to any street corner in the early morning and you will find the Bánh Mì (Bread Roll) lady. From around 5am she is there six days a week selling many workers their daily breakfast on the go. She will always greet you with a smile and give you a sense of being valued. It is a special feeling.
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| A mother and baby play watching the carp at a fish cafe in Hóc Môn. |
And you can not experience HCMC without visiting some of the plethora of local restaurants. Each one is full of families and hardworking people that give their life to creating a dining experience for everyone, no matter the food they offer.
My favourite is Ốc (Sea Snails) in Bình Thạnh. Being the only foreigner that goes to this restaurant beside the train line, I am always welcomed with a smile and a few funny words. The staff appreciate me just being there and I always enjoy the first-class food while sitting on a red plastic stool. My little dog also loves all the food she finds on the floor! To me, that is the spirit of HCMC.
You can’t judge a city in 12 hours. As Michael Caine so perfectly put it, the rest has got to be lived. Live HCMC, don’t just see it and you will find experiences and moments that you will hold deep in your heart for a lifetime. That is the true spirit of my city, HCMC. VNS
* Ray lives in HCM City and works as a teacher and freelancer. Apart from teaching, he is a keen runner and bicycle adventure rider. He has visited many parts of the country by bicycle and loves the smaller parts of this beautiful country. After ten years in Việt Nam, Ray has a love and passion for the smaller things and enjoys sharing his experiences with people all over the world.
Read original story on Vietnam News